When you first set foot in Catania—a newcomer on the edge of Brooklyn Heights named after Sicily's second largest city—you might assume it's a restaurant. Seating on either side of the door provides views of the borough's first Arab neighborhood, as if you were standing on the island of Sicily looking across the strait toward Tunisia. Just inside, a counter faced with gleaming white tiles extends deep into the room; tables run parallel along a wall of exposed brick. The lighting is artistic—though way too bright for romance. Much of the food, including oil-slicked vegetables, exotic pizza-dough creations, lushly sauced pastas, and diminutive main courses, is displayed in glass cases.
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